Lee Six Cavity/Cam to mold block fix
Over the weekend I got around to drilling and tapping the mold block on my Lee 358-158-RF six cavity mold. I installed a setscrew for the cam to push against instead of the cam pushing against the aluminum mold block.
The Lee six cavity molds are good quality aluminum molds with steel bushings and alignment pins that feature a cam operated sprue plate.
The sprue plate is hard anodized and held down with wave washers at each end but the cam itself is steel.
The problem with the steel cam is it will in time begin to erode or cause a depression in the aluminum mold block. You can stop this by drilling and taping the block and installing a simple steel setscrew or steel pin for the cam to push against.
I found this fix over at the cast boolit forum in the group buy section and thought I would give it a try and glad I did. Thanks Buckshot!
Getting the lead out...Out of the pot and into the mold that is.
The Lee six cavity molds are good quality aluminum molds with steel bushings and alignment pins that feature a cam operated sprue plate.
The sprue plate is hard anodized and held down with wave washers at each end but the cam itself is steel.
The problem with the steel cam is it will in time begin to erode or cause a depression in the aluminum mold block. You can stop this by drilling and taping the block and installing a simple steel setscrew or steel pin for the cam to push against.
I found this fix over at the cast boolit forum in the group buy section and thought I would give it a try and glad I did. Thanks Buckshot!
Getting the lead out...Out of the pot and into the mold that is.
posted by Steve B | 11:07 PM
1 Comments:
Nice pic's and easily understood! Keep up the great work!
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